【金斯專訪】來自澳洲的粗獷紳士~gezzaseyes

哈囉大家好~!我是好久不見的蝦編,這段期間由於論文一直難產的關係,真的好久沒跟大家見面了,不知道各位大大有沒有想念我啊?

金斯大:有~~啊(磨刀霍霍)
帥國邊:想死你了呢~(擦槍)
變態男模:哎呦~ 回來了呀嘿嘿嘿
蝦編:(|||゚д゚)

好的!廢話不多說,今天金斯透客就來介紹我們今天的主角,國外知名網紅gezzaseyes (Gerry Nelson) 吧!

相信很多大大跟蝦編一樣,都是從instagram這個社群媒體上搜尋很多國外的名人來學習穿搭的劑看,包含整體的搭配與顏色的配置與材質的選擇進而慢慢的意識到自己的喜好是什麼。我還記得第一次讓我很讚嘆的是這張照片。綠色的粗毛呢spory jacket與深咖啡色的燈心絨褲根本絕配,粗織的針織衫跟麂皮樂福鞋不管在材質還是顏色都是很棒的很呼應。
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第二套改搭牛仔褲都樣表現出很休閒的週末外出,皮鞋、西裝內裡跟皮帶的呼應也讓蝦編非常佩服,這樣的搭配看起來很簡單但是能完整的表現真的非常厲害。也正是這樣的顏色配置讓原本喜歡鮮豔顏色的我開始欣賞大地色系的打扮至今。 Gerry在每一次的穿搭照中,也都會分享今天使用了什麼單品,也讓我認識到了『Orslow』這個丹寧品牌,剛好最近有朋友入手,親自看過實品之後對他的質感跟版型感到非常佩服。
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除了比較紳士的打扮之外,Gerry也非常喜歡單寧品牌,比如說這身打扮就穿上了剛剛提到的『Orslow』的牛仔褲與大家熟悉的『Kapital』領巾,帥氣的『RRL』皮衣也徹底展現中年鬍子大叔的帥氣,搭配稍微正式的靴子,這樣的打扮就算立刻騎上重機也是帥到不要不要的。同時Gerry讓我非常佩服的是對於比例的掌控,他本人其實沒有很高(大約176左右,跟大家差不多),但總是有辦法穿的看起來腿超級長,前幾週他來台灣時我就有特別問他到底怎麼做到的。
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他是這樣回答我的:“If you want your legs looks more longer, you’d better put your shirt in your pants/trousers/jeans properly, and also the jeans or pants you wear should be at least medium rise. That will make your style more classic.” 簡單翻譯一下,如果你想讓腿看起來更長一點的話必須將襯衫好好的紮進褲子裡,同時選擇至少中腰的褲子,當然這樣會看起來稍微復古一些。但不論是工作服或是紳士裝,我們都可以從老照片中看到這樣的選擇。
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在聊天的過程中,發現身為工程師的Gerry也非常喜愛Boro跟刺子織元素,相關的品牌像是『Kapital』跟『blueblue Japan』的這件boro單品,他說他很欣賞把老東西重新車縫來延續紡織品的生命這樣的精神,同時這樣的工藝表現穿在身上也非常復古。
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前陣子Gerry來台灣玩的時候剛好經過了台北店,相信拜訪過台北的大大都看過我們人檯上那件駝色的Moleskin Shop Coat吧XD,Gerry一看到就立刻決定把它帶走,還跟我說他尋找這個顏色的外套找了非常久都找不到,想不到竟然在這裡找到了心目中的服裝。說真的能近距離在現場跟偶像見面聊天,對我來說是非常難得的經驗,也決定後續做個簡單的訪談介紹他給各位大大。那麼廢話不多說,我們就開始吧!
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蝦:Why did you want to become an intagrammer?
為什麼你會想成為一個男裝時尚instagrammer呢?

Gerry:I post on Tumblr and that’s was good but I decided to get on Instagram because is another way to share my outfits with the community and connect with other people who have similar interests. I am finding that it’s a more interactive format than Tumblr and I have made many new friends this way.
最初我在Tumblr上分享,但我決定開始經營我的IG帳號,因為在IG上可以用不同的方式分享我的穿搭,同時也可以跟有著相同興趣的同好們產生連結。我發現經營IG帳號比起Tumblr更有互動性而且也因此交到了許多朋友。
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蝦:what kind of style do you like the most?
你最喜歡怎麼樣的風格呢?

Gerry:I would describe my style as a combination of workwear and tailored clothing. I started out wearing suits, ties and pocket squares but have gravitated to this over time. When I had a look at my outfit photos from last year, I only wore a suit four times! I have a great liking for Japanese clothes, especially sashiko and boro fabric as well as pieces that are indigo-dyed. I like complementary colours and textures in my outfits. What you see on my instagram feed is what I wore for the day, whether for work or at the weekend. I think this kind of style can work well for many people.
我自己的風格可以說是工裝與紳士裝的混搭。最初我是從紳士服開始入門的,平時都會打上領帶,穿著西裝並使用口袋巾,但一直這樣打扮其實滿有壓力的(笑)。當我檢視過去一年的穿搭時,我竟然只穿了四次西裝!我鍾愛日系的服飾,特別是刺子織與Boro的布料與藍染的織品。顏色上我喜歡互補的顏色,而大家在IG上看到的搭配就是我每天的穿著,不論是上班或是週末。我認為這樣的風格應該滿多人都適用。
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蝦:What’s your favorite style in the weekends?
週末時你最喜歡怎麼呈現你的風格?

Gerry:I like wearing comfortable clothes during the week and weekends. In winter, this might be a thick shawl-collar cardigan, flannel shirt and comfortable jeans. In summer, something light and loosely fitted.
我喜歡穿著舒服的服裝不論平日或週末。冬天時可能會是絲瓜領粗織的針織衫、法蘭絨襯衫跟一件好穿的牛仔褲。夏天的話則是磅數比較低而且比較寬鬆的衣服。
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蝦:You are really good at mixing sports jackets with jeans, are there any tips?
蝦編我看過了Gerry你整個IG,發現你擅長混搭休閒西裝跟牛仔褲,請問有什麼訣竅嗎?

Gerry:The sports jacket needs to be casual for this to work. For example, a tweed jacket can work really well with denim. Great examples of this would be in the Drake’s AW15, AW16 and AW17 lookbooks. They are a great source of inspiration.
休閒西裝需要搭配比較輕鬆的東西才有搞頭。舉例來說,一件粗毛呢的外套跟丹寧的相性就非常搭。像是『Drake’s』(一個英國的品牌)2015~2017年秋冬的型錄就很完美的詮釋這個概念,也是我穿搭靈感的來源。
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蝦:I was surprised to see you also use some JEANSDA products in your styles.
我有看到你有些金斯大的單品(撒花),你會怎麼評價他們呢?

Gerry:I have the Fraser jeans and the Sherman moleskin shop coat. Both are very well made with great details. For example, the selvedge line on the coin pocket of the jeans is a great detail and so is the cinch at the back. The shop coat is in a wonderful colour that pairs well with many colours. I am waiting for the weather to get warmer in Melbourne so that I can wear them a lot more. The beauty with well-made pieces like this is that they will look better and better as they age. I am very impressed by the quality of the JEANSDA products that I have.
我有一件弗雷澤靛藍布邊原色褲和一件駝色的雪曼鼴鼠皮店舖大衣。這兩件在細節處理都非常用心,比方說,懷錶帶上的布邊細節很到位,而且背後的調節環也很有巧思。大衣的顏色則是跟很多顏色都相當匹配。我正在等墨爾本的天氣變暖一些,這樣就有很多機會能穿他們了。(笑) 這些細節在成衣上的呈現感很棒,當他們經過養成之後會變的更美,這些地方讓我對金斯大產品非常驚艷。
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蝦:What do you think about JEANSDA products and how would you compare it with other denim brands?
想問Gerry願意把金斯大拿來跟其他品牌做個簡單的比較嗎?對於我們這個品牌有什麼建議呢?

Gerry:I have jeans from Kapital and Orslow as well and JEANSDA is comparable with the both of them. The quality of the denim is great and the fit is good. What I really like about the Fraser jeans is their high waist which works really well with sportscoats or the more traditional styles of workwear. I would rate them up there with the other brands I love and wear, like Engineered Garments, Kapital, Orslow, Buzz Rickson’s and The Real McCoy’s.
我自己本身有『Kapital』跟『Orslow』的牛仔褲,而金斯大的褲子相較於他們毫不遜色。丹寧布料的品質很棒而且版型極佳。我最喜歡弗雷澤靛藍布邊原色褲的部分在於它是中腰褲,可以跟休閒西裝以及其他經典男裝做很恰當的搭配。我個人會把金斯大拿來與『Engineered Garments』,『Kapital』,『Orslow』,『 Buzz Rickson’s』和『The Real McCoy’s』放在同一個高度做比較。
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All of these companies make their versions of classic workwear pieces. At one end of the scale, you have Buzz Rickson’s and The Real McCoy’s who make exact reproductions. At the other end, you have Kapital who have some really wild takes on these things while incorporating Japanese elements. JEANSDA clothes lie somewhere in between the two.
剛剛提及的品牌都有很棒的經典工裝。金斯大的產品有著像『Buzz Rickson’s』和『The Real McCoy’s』一樣的復刻細節,另一方面,也有像『Kapital』一樣有著日本元素的原創部分,金斯大的商品可以說在經典復刻與原創中找到了一個平衡。
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感謝各位大大耐心收看,如果想要更加了解Gerry的穿搭的話,可以按下圖前往他的Instagram,或是到Gerry的tumblr來看他最新的穿搭文章~。最後跟大家預告一下未來我們會陸續推出國外網紅的訪談系列,如果各位大大有喜歡的網紅或欣賞的穿搭名人也請別吝嗇分享給我們吧!說不定哪天有機會就會在上看到囉。那麼金斯透客,我們下次見~
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金斯大:蝦編,用一句話講一下心得吧!
蝦編:爽到不行啊!!!

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1 Comment

  • Reply
    羅氏鮮
    2018 年 02 月 28 日 at 15:32:51

    good~挺好看的

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